Is My To Live Again a First Edition?

The points of issue

• The US Doubleday first hardcover (Garden City, 1969) is stated "First Edition" beneath the copyright notice, following Doubleday's 1927-2000 practice of printing that line on true firsts
• The book is bound in blue cloth with the title stamped in black on the spine, and is issued in an illustrated dust jacket designed by Pat Steir; the first-issue jacket carries the printed price and should not be replaced or clipped away
• The Doubleday gutter code ("K32", the manufacturing code for this printing) is stamped in the gutter of one of the final leaves
• The text runs 231 pages

How Doubleday marked a first edition

• Mid-1958–early 1959: numerical gutter code (1–52) on the last page of text indicating the WEEK of printing. Early 1959–1987: added a LETTER code before the week code indicating the YEAR.

Full Doubleday first-edition guide →

How to verify your copy, step by step

1. Find the copyright page — the verso (back) of the title page.
2. Confirm the first-edition statement — look for “First Edition,” “First Printing,” or the publisher’s equivalent wording.
3. Check for a number line or dated printing — the lowest number present is the printing; a dated first printing with no later printings listed is the tell.
4. Verify this is the US true first — not a later-market or reprint edition.
5. Rule out a book-club edition — a blind-stamp on the rear board or a jacket with no printed price marks a book-club copy.
6. Photograph four things — the front cover, spine, title page, and copyright page — the standard record for identification.

The dust jacket

For a collectible first edition the dust jacket matters as much as the book. Confirm the jacket is present and unclipped — the printed price should still be at the corner of the flap (a clipped corner or a price-less flap can indicate a book-club issue). First-state jackets can differ from later ones in the cover art, blurbs, or review quotations; where a specific first-state jacket point is known for this title it is noted above.

Binding & format

Where multiple bindings exist, the hardcover trade issue is usually (but not always) the precedence copy — confirm against the points above. Later printings often show cheaper cloth, thinner boards, or simplified spine stamping. A simultaneous signed or limited issue, when one exists, is a distinct state from the trade first.

Is this the true first?

US Doubleday first hardcover (Garden City, 1969), stated "First Edition" on the copyright page, blue cloth, Pat Steir jacket art.P-027912

Telling it from reprints & book-club editions

The book club edition lacks the stated "First Edition" line and the printed-price jacket, is bound and printed more cheaply, and typically carries a small blind-stamp (impressed square or dot) on the lower rear board. Note that the Doubleday gutter code alone does not distinguish trade from book-club copies, since Doubleday used gutter codes on both; rely on the stated "First Edition", the priced jacket, and the absence of the blind stamp.P-027913

Frequently asked questions

Is my copy of To Live Again a first edition?

A first edition of To Live Again by Robert Silverberg (Doubleday) is identified by: The US Doubleday first hardcover (Garden City, 1969) is stated "First Edition" beneath the copyright notice, following Doubleday's 1927-2000 practice of printing that line on true firsts.

How do I tell the first printing from a later one?

Check the copyright page. A stated first edition, a number line ending in 1, or a dated first printing with no later printings listed is the key. US Doubleday first hardcover (Garden City, 1969), stated "First Edition" on the copyright page, blue cloth, Pat Steir jacket art.

Is the book-club edition the same as the first?

The book club edition lacks the stated "First Edition" line and the printed-price jacket, is bound and printed more cheaply, and typically carries a small blind-stamp (impressed square or dot) on the lower rear board. Note that the Doubleday gutter code alone does not distinguish trade from book-club copies, since Doubleday used gutter codes on both; rely on the stated "First Edition", the priced jacket, and the absence of the blind stamp.

I have a first edition of To Live Again — what should I do?

First, document the copy: photograph the copyright page (the number line and any edition statement) and the dust-jacket flap — an unclipped, priced jacket matters. Confirm the points of issue above against your copy, and use the free First Edition Checker to decode the printing. To sell, the author’s collecting guide covers the market. And if you are clearing books in the Albuquerque area, the New Mexico Literacy Project offers free pickup, any condition, and makes sure collectible copies are identified rather than discarded.

Glossary

First edition

Every copy printed from the first setting of type. Collectors usually want the first edition, first printing (the true first).

First printing / impression

A single press run from that setting. The first printing is the earliest and most desirable; later printings are still the first edition but not the true first.

Number line (printer's key)

A row of numbers on the copyright page (e.g. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1). The lowest number present is the printing — a line including 1 marks a first printing (Random House deliberately ends at 2).

Points of issue

Specific physical details — a stated edition, a number line, a typo, a jacket state — that identify the true first printing.

Book-club edition (BCE)

A reprint made for a book club. Tells include a blind-stamped dot or square on the rear board and a dust jacket with no printed price. Not the true first.

First thus

The first appearance of a particular version (first paperback, first illustrated, first U.S. printing) — a first of that kind, not the first edition of the work.