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Free Tool · Deadwax Welcome

Vinyl Lookup & Grading Helper

Type the matrix etching from the deadwax, the catalog number from the spine, or the barcode — get the record back. Then grade it like the pros do.

1 · Read the deadwax
Tilt the record under a light: the etching in the smooth ring between the last groove and the label (e.g. XSV 123456-1A). Or grab the catalog # off the spine, or the barcode.
2 · Type it, hit Enter
Spaces and dashes don’t matter. Etchings vary copy to copy — if the exact string misses, the lookup matches the stable prefix and shows candidates.
3 · Copy & grade
One tap copies artist + album for Discogs/eBay. Then run the grading checklist below before you list or file it.
Reads the same open Discogs data collectors use — plus MusicBrainz as a fallback.

Moving a record collection along? LPs, 45s and 78s, sleeves or no sleeves, go in my covered 24/7 drop box on Edith Blvd NE, any condition. Crates too heavy to lift? Text 505-250-3804 for free pickup across the Albuquerque metro, or come by 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. for a hand unloading.

Visual grading checklist (Goldmine-style)

Check everything that applies — the suggested grade updates as you go. Honest limit: this is visual grading; a play-test can only lower the grade, never raise it. Grade the record and the jacket separately, always.

The record

The jacket / sleeve

Record: Near Mint (NM) · Jacket: Near Mint (NM)

Scale: M (sealed/untouched — use sparingly) > NM > VG+ > VG > G+/G > F/P. Most played-but-cared-for records land VG+ or VG. When in doubt, grade DOWN — buyers reward conservative graders.

How to read the deadwax

The matrix/runout is the hand-etched or stamped string in the smooth band between the last groove and the label. Tilt the record under a strong light and rotate it slowly — read both sides (they differ). The first block is usually the label’s master number; letters after a dash (like -1A, -RE1) are stamper/mother marks that vary between copies and often separate an original pressing from a later one. Type the whole string here; if your exact copy’s suffix isn’t on file, the tool matches the stable prefix and shows candidates.

Mono, stereo, and “first pressing” — the honest version

Why grading conservative wins

The checklist above follows the Goldmine standard the hobby actually uses. Two rules from years of selling: grade the record and the jacket separately (buyers assume the worse of the two if you don’t), and when you’re between grades, take the lower one — returns and bad feedback cost more than the difference. Visual grading has a ceiling: a play-test can only demote a record, so “NM (visual)” is the honest phrasing for anything you haven’t played.

This is an identification and grading aid, not an appraisal — it never tells you what a record is worth. Sister tools: CD Number Lookup and the LCCN Lookup for pre-ISBN books, all on the tools hub.

Questions

What is the matrix/runout (deadwax)?

The etched or stamped characters in the smooth band between the last groove and the label. It identifies the lacquer/master and often the pressing plant and stamper — the single most useful identifier on a record with no jacket.

My etching has extra letters that don't match — why?

Stamper and mother marks (like -1A, -1B) vary from copy to copy of the same release. Type the whole string; the tool falls back to matching the stable prefix and shows you the candidate releases.

Does the tool tell me if I have a first pressing?

It gets you to the right release and links the Discogs page where pressing variants are documented. 'First pressing' is confirmed by matching several details — label design, catalog number, deadwax, jacket — not any single field.

Does it value my records?

No. Identification and grading guidance only — never prices or appraisals.