Is My My Cousin Rachel a First Edition?

The points of issue

• Victor Gollancz Ltd, London, dated 1951, under the house's yellow typographic dust jacket; a priced, unclipped jacket (price present at the flap) is called for
• Dealer descriptions of the first-impression binding vary between publisher's red cloth lettered in black on the spine and tan boards, so binding color alone should not be used to accept or reject a copy — the jacket and the 1951 Gollancz imprint are the controlling points
• Octavo, 352 pp
• The first American edition (Doubleday, New York, 1952) states "First Edition" on the copyright page and is bound in yellow cloth lettered in green, with green endpapers and a yellow-stained top edge, in a priced pictorial jacket

How Victor Gollancz marked a first edition

• Pre-1984: NO first-edition statement was made — first printings carry no 'First published' line; ONLY later printings were noted (so absence of any printing statement = likely first, presence of a reprint note = later)
• For pre-1984 titles, confirm via dust-jacket points, dated jackets, and absence of reprint notation rather than a positive statement

Full Victor Gollancz first-edition guide →

How to verify your copy, step by step

1. Find the copyright page — the verso (back) of the title page.
2. Confirm the first-edition statement — look for “First Edition,” “First Printing,” or the publisher’s equivalent wording.
3. Check for a number line or dated printing — the lowest number present is the printing; a dated first printing with no later printings listed is the tell.
4. Rule out a book-club edition — a blind-stamp on the rear board or a jacket with no printed price marks a book-club copy.
5. Photograph four things — the front cover, spine, title page, and copyright page — the standard record for identification.

The dust jacket

For a collectible first edition the dust jacket matters as much as the book. Confirm the jacket is present and unclipped — the printed price should still be at the corner of the flap (a clipped corner or a price-less flap can indicate a book-club issue). First-state jackets can differ from later ones in the cover art, blurbs, or review quotations; where a specific first-state jacket point is known for this title it is noted above.

Binding & format

Where multiple bindings exist, the hardcover trade issue is usually (but not always) the precedence copy — confirm against the points above. Later printings often show cheaper cloth, thinner boards, or simplified spine stamping. A simultaneous signed or limited issue, when one exists, is a distinct state from the trade first.

Is this the true first?

Victor Gollancz (London) 1951 is the true first; the Doubleday (New York) edition followed in 1952. Both are collected; the Gollancz edition has precedence.

Telling it from reprints & book-club editions

US copies lacking the stated "First Edition" on the copyright page and a priced jacket are later printings or club issues; no specific UK book-club points were documented in the sources consulted.

Frequently asked questions

Is my copy of My Cousin Rachel a first edition?

A first edition of My Cousin Rachel by Daphne du Maurier (Victor Gollancz) is identified by: Victor Gollancz Ltd, London, dated 1951, under the house's yellow typographic dust jacket; a priced, unclipped jacket (price present at the flap) is called for.

How do I tell the first printing from a later one?

Check the copyright page. A stated first edition, a number line ending in 1, or a dated first printing with no later printings listed is the key. Victor Gollancz (London) 1951 is the true first; the Doubleday (New York) edition followed in 1952.

Is the book-club edition the same as the first?

US copies lacking the stated "First Edition" on the copyright page and a priced jacket are later printings or club issues; no specific UK book-club points were documented in the sources consulted.

I have a first edition of My Cousin Rachel — what should I do?

First, document the copy: photograph the copyright page (the number line and any edition statement) and the dust-jacket flap — an unclipped, priced jacket matters. Confirm the points of issue above against your copy, and use the free First Edition Checker to decode the printing. To sell, the author’s collecting guide covers the market. And if you are clearing books in the Albuquerque area, the New Mexico Literacy Project offers free pickup, any condition, and makes sure collectible copies are identified rather than discarded.

Glossary

First edition

Every copy printed from the first setting of type. Collectors usually want the first edition, first printing (the true first).

First printing / impression

A single press run from that setting. The first printing is the earliest and most desirable; later printings are still the first edition but not the true first.

Number line (printer's key)

A row of numbers on the copyright page (e.g. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1). The lowest number present is the printing — a line including 1 marks a first printing (Random House deliberately ends at 2).

Points of issue

Specific physical details — a stated edition, a number line, a typo, a jacket state — that identify the true first printing.

Book-club edition (BCE)

A reprint made for a book club. Tells include a blind-stamped dot or square on the rear board and a dust jacket with no printed price. Not the true first.

First thus

The first appearance of a particular version (first paperback, first illustrated, first U.S. printing) — a first of that kind, not the first edition of the work.