Is My Lud-in-the-Mist a First Edition?

The points of issue

• London: W. Collins Sons & Co
• Ltd., 1926; octavo, pp. [i-vi] vii-viii 1-319 [320: printer's imprint]. The binding sequence is the operative point, not the title page
• The first binding (Silver Stallion bibliography Lud-A1) is textured buff to medium-brown cloth, the front panel ruled in dark brown, the publisher's imprint stamped in dark brown at the base of the spine panel, with a printed leather label affixed to the spine
• Later bindings of the same sheets are the trap: Lud-A1a is identical except that the leather label is replaced by a boxed title printed directly on the spine
• Lud-A1b is blue cloth with black lettering and decoration and a zig-zag ruled box on the spine
• Lud-A1c is red cloth with black lettering and decoration

How to confirm the first-printing statement

Publishers stated first printings differently by era. The decisive tells are a printed “First Edition/First Printing” statement, a number line whose lowest number is 1 (Random House ends at 2), or a dated first printing with no later printings listed. Paste your copyright page into the number-line decoder.

How to verify your copy, step by step

1. Find the copyright page — the verso (back) of the title page.
2. Read the number line — the lowest number is the printing. A line including 1 is a first printing (Random House deliberately ends at 2). Paste it into the decoder.
3. Verify this is the UK true first — not a later-market or reprint edition.
4. Rule out a book-club edition — a blind-stamp on the rear board or a jacket with no printed price marks a book-club copy.
5. Photograph four things — the front cover, spine, title page, and copyright page — the standard record for identification.

The dust jacket

For a collectible first edition the dust jacket matters as much as the book. Confirm the jacket is present and unclipped — the printed price should still be at the corner of the flap (a clipped corner or a price-less flap can indicate a book-club issue). First-state jackets can differ from later ones in the cover art, blurbs, or review quotations; where a specific first-state jacket point is known for this title it is noted above.

Binding & format

Where multiple bindings exist, the hardcover trade issue is usually (but not always) the precedence copy — confirm against the points above. Later printings often show cheaper cloth, thinner boards, or simplified spine stamping. A simultaneous signed or limited issue, when one exists, is a distinct state from the trade first.

Is this the true first?

UK first — the census claim is confirmed. W. Collins Sons & Co., London, 1926 precedes the first American edition, Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 1927. Both are collected and a full description should name both. The Knopf first US collates octavo, pp. [1-2] [1-10] 11-313 [314: blank] [315: 'a note on the type'] [316-318: blank], with a final blank leaf, and is bound in decorated boards with a green cloth shelf back and a printed paper label affixed to the spine panel, fore and bottom edges rough-trimmed, decorated endpapers, in a pictorial jacket.

Telling it from reprints & book-club editions

No book-club edition is documented for the 1926 Collins issue. The dominant tell is binding-state rather than reprint: Collins re-cased the same sheets into the A1a, A1b and A1c bindings, so cloth colour and the presence of the printed leather spine label — not the title page, which is identical across them — decide the first binding. Later Knopf and mid-century paperback reissues carry their own imprints and dates.

Frequently asked questions

Is my copy of Lud-in-the-Mist a first edition?

A first edition of Lud-in-the-Mist by Hope Mirrlees (W. Collins Sons & Co. Ltd.) is identified by: Ltd., 1926; octavo, pp.

How do I tell the first printing from a later one?

Check the copyright page. A number line whose lowest number is 1 marks a first printing (Random House ends at 2). UK first — the census claim is confirmed.

Is the book-club edition the same as the first?

No book-club edition is documented for the 1926 Collins issue. The dominant tell is binding-state rather than reprint: Collins re-cased the same sheets into the A1a, A1b and A1c bindings, so cloth colour and the presence of the printed leather spine label — not the title page, which is identical across them — decide the first binding. Later Knopf and mid-century paperback reissues carry their own imprints and dates.

I have a first edition of Lud-in-the-Mist — what should I do?

First, document the copy: photograph the copyright page (the number line and any edition statement) and the dust-jacket flap — an unclipped, priced jacket matters. Confirm the points of issue above against your copy, and use the free First Edition Checker to decode the printing. To sell, the author’s collecting guide covers the market. And if you are clearing books in the Albuquerque area, the New Mexico Literacy Project offers free pickup, any condition, and makes sure collectible copies are identified rather than discarded.

Glossary

First edition

Every copy printed from the first setting of type. Collectors usually want the first edition, first printing (the true first).

First printing / impression

A single press run from that setting. The first printing is the earliest and most desirable; later printings are still the first edition but not the true first.

Number line (printer's key)

A row of numbers on the copyright page (e.g. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1). The lowest number present is the printing — a line including 1 marks a first printing (Random House deliberately ends at 2).

Points of issue

Specific physical details — a stated edition, a number line, a typo, a jacket state — that identify the true first printing.

Book-club edition (BCE)

A reprint made for a book club. Tells include a blind-stamped dot or square on the rear board and a dust jacket with no printed price. Not the true first.

First thus

The first appearance of a particular version (first paperback, first illustrated, first U.S. printing) — a first of that kind, not the first edition of the work.