Is My James and the Giant Peach a First Edition?

The points of issue

• True first is the US Alfred A. Knopf edition
• with no printing statement and no later titles listed
• The earliest issue is identified by the colophon reading 'Bound by H. Wolff, New York' (later printings substitute 'The Book Press')
• Publisher's red cloth boards, upper board blind-stamped with a boy encircled in a wreath, gilt lettering to the spine; top edge stained yellow, green endpapers
• Nancy Ekholm Burkert illustrations
• First-issue jacket carries its printed price present at the front flap

How Alfred A. Knopf marked a first edition

• 1915–c.1933 (no stated-edition era): first printings carry NO first-edition notation at all. Identify by EXCLUSION — a genuine first has none of the later-printing legends ('Second Printing,' 'Third Printing,' etc.) that…
• c.1933/1934 onward (stated 'First Edition' era — the core rule): Knopf began consistently printing 'FIRST EDITION' on the copyright page of first printings, or 'FIRST AMERICAN EDITION' when the book had already appeared…

Full Alfred A. Knopf first-edition guide →

How to verify your copy, step by step

1. Find the copyright page — the verso (back) of the title page.
2. Check for a number line or dated printing — the lowest number present is the printing; a dated first printing with no later printings listed is the tell.
3. Verify this is the US true first — not a later-market or reprint edition.
4. Rule out a book-club edition — a blind-stamp on the rear board or a jacket with no printed price marks a book-club copy.
5. Photograph four things — the front cover, spine, title page, and copyright page — the standard record for identification.

The dust jacket

For a collectible first edition the dust jacket matters as much as the book. Confirm the jacket is present and unclipped — the printed price should still be at the corner of the flap (a clipped corner or a price-less flap can indicate a book-club issue). First-state jackets can differ from later ones in the cover art, blurbs, or review quotations; where a specific first-state jacket point is known for this title it is noted above.

Binding & format

Where multiple bindings exist, the hardcover trade issue is usually (but not always) the precedence copy — confirm against the points above. Later printings often show cheaper cloth, thinner boards, or simplified spine stamping. A simultaneous signed or limited issue, when one exists, is a distinct state from the trade first.

Is this the true first?

US Knopf (1961) is the true first, preceding the UK George Allen & Unwin edition (1967). The Wolff colophon, red cloth binding, and Burkert art together define the earliest state.P-026661

Telling it from reprints & book-club editions

Book-club editions omit any first-edition points, are reduced in size, and lack the printed jacket price. The UK first uses Michel Simeon art (and later Quentin Blake), which is a separate 'first thus.' A Knopf copy with 'The Book Press' colophon is a later binding state rather than the earliest issue.P-026662

Frequently asked questions

Is my copy of James and the Giant Peach a first edition?

A first edition of James and the Giant Peach by Roald Dahl (illus. Nancy Ekholm Burkert) (Alfred A. Knopf) is identified by: True first is the US Alfred A.

How do I tell the first printing from a later one?

Check the copyright page. A stated first edition, a number line ending in 1, or a dated first printing with no later printings listed is the key. US Knopf (1961) is the true first, preceding the UK George Allen & Unwin edition (1967).

Is the book-club edition the same as the first?

Book-club editions omit any first-edition points, are reduced in size, and lack the printed jacket price. The UK first uses Michel Simeon art (and later Quentin Blake), which is a separate 'first thus.' A Knopf copy with 'The Book Press' colophon is a later binding state rather than the earliest issue.

I have a first edition of James and the Giant Peach — what should I do?

First, document the copy: photograph the copyright page (the number line and any edition statement) and the dust-jacket flap — an unclipped, priced jacket matters. Confirm the points of issue above against your copy, and use the free First Edition Checker to decode the printing. To sell, the author’s collecting guide covers the market. And if you are clearing books in the Albuquerque area, the New Mexico Literacy Project offers free pickup, any condition, and makes sure collectible copies are identified rather than discarded.

Glossary

First edition

Every copy printed from the first setting of type. Collectors usually want the first edition, first printing (the true first).

First printing / impression

A single press run from that setting. The first printing is the earliest and most desirable; later printings are still the first edition but not the true first.

Number line (printer's key)

A row of numbers on the copyright page (e.g. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1). The lowest number present is the printing — a line including 1 marks a first printing (Random House deliberately ends at 2).

Points of issue

Specific physical details — a stated edition, a number line, a typo, a jacket state — that identify the true first printing.

Book-club edition (BCE)

A reprint made for a book club. Tells include a blind-stamped dot or square on the rear board and a dust jacket with no printed price. Not the true first.

First thus

The first appearance of a particular version (first paperback, first illustrated, first U.S. printing) — a first of that kind, not the first edition of the work.